Keeping it 'deshi'

After  a period fascination with all things western, ethnic and fusion wear is once again huge in South Asian fashion. Indian designers are producing pieces of clothing equivalent to art, both in traditional and fusion wear. Gandhi, the leader of India's freedom struggle said, “Swaraj (self-rule) without swadeshi (country made goods) is a lifeless corpse and if Swadeshi is the soul of Swaraj, khadi is the essence of swadeshi.”

And we too can pride ourselves in the glory. Khadi is very much a Bangladeshi product that has deep rooted connections to our liberation movement. It also helped shape the Bangladesh identity, at least in terms of what we wear.
Amongst the elites of our neighbouring country, so deep rooted is the bond attached to khadi that Pandit Nehru wove for his daughter Indira, a wedding sari in salmon-pink khadi, while he was in jail. This sari is still worn by women of the Nehru-Gandhi family on their wedding day.
When it comes to appreciating the local industries, the Pakistanis too are not far behind, with spins on their own traditions.

Each of these countries has their own style bible: although there is no limit to originality, there is a distinction between the designs of India and Pakistan. In these countries, local produce get patronisation from the state and also from enthusiasts, retailers and even celebrities.
The question is, when it comes to “fashion patriotism”, why are we lagging behind? Is it a lack of quality fabric, good designers, or do we just never bother to look? Some say it's the high prices, others complain about lack of innovative designs, but despite playing the blame game and focusing on a hundred other factors, the reality is that 'deshi' fabrics are unfortunately the last thing on our minds.
“When picking out something to wear at a wedding, it's true that I immediately go for the Indian or Pakistani outfits in my closet,” admitted university student Saima. Most of us can relate to this, but it's more about the mindset than the actual lack of options. Bangladesh has more than its share of locally created and crafted fabrics, each unique and beautiful in its own way.

In the age of tailored designs, we ourselves can think of creative interpretations on traditional fabrics. A long kameez made from Jamdani with a lace border, buttons down the front and palazzo pants will definitely make you unique. You can cut up old jamdani saris which have incurred a few tears over time.
Few fabrics are as sophisticated as muslins in bright, summery colours with some intricate embroidery. 'Endi' and 'motka silks' come in unique jewel tones which create an unparalleled impact. On the other hand, a katan three-piece, or a katan sari, needs no further embellishment, and is the perfect party wear as it is.
'Deshi' fabrics are of course a hot favourite for casual wear, and these fabrics make the perfect canvas for your statement jewellery. 'Khadi' is an excellent option for 'kurtas' and panjabis. 'Taant' and cotton are breathable fabrics that really do beat the heat. A 'gamcha' print is always an edgy look to try. These fabrics are available in fabric stores, as well as other fashion houses.
“I would like to see more of innovative designers who give a modern twist on our traditional fabrics,” commented Tahera, a bank professional who often buys fabrics and makes her own designs instead of opting for ready-made kameez sets. She adds that it is disappointing that unstitched and fashionable 'deshi' fabrics are not as readily available as Pakistani and Indian three-piece shalwar kameez sets.
 While a lot of local boutiques cater to mass fashion, there are only a few designers who focus on high fashion with 'deshi' elements. And although visiting fabric and lace stores to create personalised designs are a much-loved activity of Bangladeshi women right now, options are stark in the average store when it comes to 'deshi' fabrics.
Despite all this, a few of us can be the pioneers by embracing the 'deshi' fabrics we know and love so well. Once shopkeepers notice the demand, they will undoubtedly respond with supply. Here's to the prosperity of local fashion; we look forward to those days when our neighbours covet Bangladeshi designs over their own!

My friend MR.Shawon